GIOVANNI CAMERA SATURATES EACH FIBER WITH FERVENT OUTBURSTS OF INTUITION AND WISDOM

Second Issue (P. 22)

By Sabrina Johnson

As early as twenty years ago, Vogue designated him as the best living tailor in the world. I explore Giovanni Camera’s life and the intricate secrets of his ascent to distinction in an interview at his atelier in Rome, located half way between Via Veneto (of "La Dolce Vita" fame) and 16th century park Villa Borghese.

A story with such vitality as his, merits to be recounted since its origins. As Camera details his career providing a collage of vivid images, the reader will slowly piece together an elaborate canvas capturing the significance of creativity, knowledge, passion and perseverance.

Born in a small town in Calabria, southern Italy, he was just five years old when his curiosity ignited his interest of a local shop. At that young age, he became the apprentice of a successful local tailor. In those years, Camera explains, children were encouraged to learn a trade, therefore his parents urged him to spend time at the tailor’s studio after school, in the afternoons. The intensity of the early training he received, allowed him to complete a pair of pants by the age of eleven.

As a direct result of having learned the art of cutting and sewing suits from mature artisans, he creates his fashions in harmony with the true "made in Italy" tradition. His works can simply be described as classics, because they never go out of style largely due to the fact that they are consistent with a custom made comfortable elegance that is comparable to "a second skin".

"The continuous study of anatomy has proven essential in perfecting my technique. Today’s materials tend not to fit very gracefully because they are manufactured to be increasingly lighter and, in turn, they present various challenges rendering them very difficult to work with. After achieving the skill of perfectly determining a customer’s anatomy, complete with its defects and anticipated movements, I then handcraft the materials, in the true sense of the word, in such a way as to minimize the defects and highlighting the advantages, while accentuating the qualities of the materials used", explains Camera.

Although very few things have changed since the last century in terms of elegance, he says that the possibility for innovation is always existent. As an example, he explains that he created some new techniques that render the shoulders of a jacket perfectly wearable or, others, that contribute toward achieving an impeccably form fitting suit. Camera also uses a special variety of fabrics that range from normal wool to the best English cashmere and which include vicunas and luxury cloths that partly consist of gold yarns or diamond chips. He further states that the techniques he developed, are the result of the overwhelming passion he has for his profession, in combination with the extensive and diverse experience that he has accumulated throughout his career, while constructing creations that are distinctly unique as each of the individuals that they are realized for.

We asked Camera what factors influence his fashions. He affirmed that his influences mostly derive from his fascination with actors from the 30’s and 40’s. Part of his inspiration comes from memorable characters of classic films, such as the exquisitely elegant Melvyn Douglas in "Two-Faced Woman", James Stewart in the early years and the agile Fred Astaire performing in his morning coat or his tail-coat. He further points to the way in which Gary Grant’s refinement in "Notorious" was evident as he was welcomed by Ingrid Bergman’s husband, while wearing his tuxedo. Camera observes that some of today’s best and most talented actors dress very poorly, largely as a result of the production companies’ attempt to maintain lower costs. In relation to women’s fashions, he claims that he has always been inspired by the example of masterpieces such as those worn by Patricia Neal or Grace Kelly.

Inspiration may present itself at any moment and I asked Camera to describe how he approaches the development of an idea from its conception. Reflecting for a while, he smiles and responds by clarifying that his inspired concepts are directly related to possible solutions for difficulties that he may encounter throughout the realization of a particular model. He usually tests his ideas immediately, although he emphasizes that it’s unnecessary to memorize them, since every person’s physique is different and therefore those ideas are applied to numerous models using a range of variations.

Camera operates with a staff of associates whom he supervises, but he is very determined in pursuing his creations with humility and while practicing his great listening skills, along with his perception and understanding of his clients’ requirements. His work is his passion and it absorbs all of his time. "My concentration is always focused, therefore it’s very unusual for me to get distracted. At times, I may stop working at 3:00 in the morning, then begin again three hours later without feeling any exhaustion, simply due to the intensity of my enthusiasm for this work", says Camera.

When asked to describe his most fulfilling accomplishments, Camera tells Daria! that, in addition to the obvious response of hearing his clients’ declarations of satisfaction for his creations, he truly loves the act of transforming their dreams into reality. He expands on this notion by confirming that these dreams are always based on beauty. In fact, by designing models that can camouflage defects, thereby rendering them inexistent, someone’s happiness is being revived, even if it only lasts for a limited period of time.

Camera stresses that he has no interest in industrial fashion production. All his work consists of artisan craftsmanship and his upcoming projects are strictly going to involve high fashion. Contemplating the introduction of a new generation of talent entering the "haute couture" world in order to establish a presence, I asked Camera if he has any suggestions to offer young tailors. Without hesitation, he says: "Enduring great sacrifices, constant learning, passion and a great dose of modesty are the minimal elements for a successful career in this field".

A leader in his field, with great longevity and representing the ideal example of success, Giovanni Camera’s commitment to his craft is unequalled. I thank him for being as genuine as he is fascinating and for sharing the story of his amazing career with us. D

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